Today I'm going to harangue you to make meringue. If you can make meringue, you can always make an amazing pudding. Andanyone can make meringue. Well, anyone with a whisk.
The crucial thing with this classic concoction is the whipping, first of the egg whites – which must be taken to the stage where their proteins are stretched to the max and they hold stiff peaks – and then of the sugar-and-egg mixture. The sugar must dissolve into the whites to create asmooth, glossy, stable foam. You can do all this whipping by hand with a balloon whisk (a matter of pride for many chefs), but you're looking at a serious upper arm workout. Ahandheld electric whisk makes short work of the job, while if you've got a freestanding mixer with whisk attachment, you're laughing. All you have to do is crank it up to 11 and watch as an unpromising-looking mix of egg white and sugar is turned into a snowy cloud that will hold whatever beautiful dunes and peaks you choose to swirl it into.
Today's recipes are based on the most common and straightforward type of meringue (called french or swiss). To ensure success, you just need good clean egg whites – ideally not from just-laid eggs (when the white will be less stable). You can even freeze them and defrost to make your meringue. Fresh or frozen, they should be at room temperature when you start. Use a dry, clean bowl and whisk – any grease or moisture may prevent your meringue reaching its maximum volume. Traces of egg yolk can also spoil things, so separate the eggs very carefully.
The sugar should, in most cases, be caster because it's fine enough to dissolve easily into the egg whites. Undissolved sugar can lead to beads of sticky sugar syrup "weeping" from the cooked meringue. Don't worry too much about this: it won't detract from the deliciousness of theend result. Always use the full 50g sugar per egg white – any less, and your meringues are likely to besoft and spread as they cook.
When it comes to cooking, the general rule is cool and long. My preference, for small individual meringues, is for about three hours at a very low 100C/210F. This gives meringues that are crisp pretty much all the way through, so they explode enticingly beneath your spoon. However, if you prefer a crisp shell with more of a marshmallowy, soft centre, cook them a touch hotter for less time – say 120C/250F for 90 minutes. Don't take it much higher, or you again risk upsetting your meringues and making them weep, or encouraging them to crack. (One exception to this rule is for the kind of topping you want on lemon meringue pies, when a hotter oven browns the outside but keeps the interior soft and mallowy.)
A word of warning: meringue has a tendency to misbehave when the weather is very humid or damp. Your finished creation can absorb moisture from the air and become sticky. Beyond that, and given how simple, scrumptious and versatile it is, I'd say that making meringue is a jolly good plan on pretty much any day of the year. So don't be whisk-averse…
Basic meringues
Golden caster sugar gives a lovely, pale gold meringue. Serves six.
2 large egg whites
100g caster sugar
Heat the oven to 100C/210F. Line abaking sheet with nonstick baking parchment. Beat the egg whites for several minutes with an electric whisk, or in a mixer, until they are thick and hold firm peaks when you raise the beaters. Keep beating, gradually adding the caster sugar atablespoon at a time, until it is thoroughly incorporated and you have a very thick, glossy meringue.
Spoon on to the baking tray in six blobs. Try to keep them essentially the same size, but don't worry too much about making them neat or uniform: enjoy their gorgeous, swirling, peaky loveliness. Bake for three hours, then remove from the oven and leave to cool completely. (If you prefer a squidgy-centred meringue, bake at 120C/250F for 90 minutes instead.) When cool, use at once or store in an airtight container for a few days. Airtight is important, or they will start to soften.
The simplest way to serve them is with lightly whipped double cream and fresh fruit – at this time of year, lightly crushed raspberries are my favourite accompaniment, but you can partner them with anything from a bramley apple compote or roasted, halved peaches to lime-spritzed mango or passion fruit.
Variations
Eton mess This always goes down a storm. Make meringues as above. Slice 500g strawberries (or 250g each strawberries and raspberries), combine with 35g caster sugar and chill for an hour. Lightly whip 350ml double cream. Crush the meringues roughly and fold into the cream, followed by the fruit, before serving. You can make it with all sorts of fruit: cooked and sweetened rhubarb, gooseberries, blackcurrants, plums.
Coffee meringue Fold a tablespoon of strong espresso (or a tablespoon of instant coffee dissolved in atablespoon of boiling water) into the meringue mix before baking. Don't worry if it's slightly streaky and uneven. Coffee meringue is surprisingly good with fruit – try atart blackcurrant or damson puree.
Chocolate meringue This tastes amazing: fold a tablespoon of sifted cocoa into the mix before baking.
Nutty meringue Fold 50g toasted and fairly finely chopped pistachios or hazelnuts into the mix. These are fabulous with cream, raspberries and a dark chocolate sauce.
Chocolate meringue semifreddo
The richness of this sumptuous frozen pud is leavened with chunks of sweet, powdery meringue. As an alternative, spoon the mix into glasses, set it in the fridge and serve as a mousse. Serves eight to 10.
1 quantity basic meringues, as above
Raspberries, to serve
For the semifreddo
150g dark chocolate, broken intopieces
3 large eggs
75g caster sugar
225ml double cream
Line a 1kg loaf tin (ie, around 11cm x 22cm internal dimensions) with clingfilm. Put the chocolate in a basin over a pan of simmering water until melted, then leave to cool until tepid.
Put the eggs and sugar in a large bowl and whisk with an electric whisk (or mixer) until quadrupled in volume, thick, pale and creamy. The mix should hold a trail when you lift the beaters. Fold in the chocolate. Whip the cream until it holds soft peaks and fold into the mixture, too.
Roughly crush the meringues – you want some nice big bits in there – and fold into the chocolate mix. Spread into the tin and freeze for about eight hours. You should be able to slice it straight from the freezer. Serve in small slices (it's very rich), with some raspberries alongside.
Hazelnut meringue roulade with raspberries
Hazelnut meringue has a praline-like flavour and an irresistible, gooey texture. Serves 10.
For the roulade
100g hazelnuts
250g caster sugar
A little sunflower oil
5 large egg whites
For the filling
100ml plain wholemilk yoghurt
400ml double cream
2 tbsp caster sugar
Finely grated zest of 1 orange
250g raspberries, plus extra to serve
Heat the oven to 180C/350F/gas mark 4. Spread the hazelnuts on a baking sheet and toast for five to eight minutes, until golden. Leave to cool, then put in a food processor with atablespoon of the sugar and chop finely. Do not over-process so the nuts become oily – it's fine if there are a few chunkier bits in the mix.
Raise the oven temperature to 200C/390F/gas mark 6. Line a 23cm x 33cm swiss roll tin with baking parchment and grease lightly with oil.
Beat the egg whites for several minutes until they are thick, white and hold firm peaks. Keep beating, gradually adding the sugar, until it is all well incorporated and you have avery thick, glossy meringue that holds firm peaks. Fold in the hazelnuts as lightly as you can.
Spread the mix in the lined tin. Bake for eight minutes, then lower the heat to 160C/320F/gas mark 2½ and cook for 15 minutes more, until golden and crisp. Leave to cool completely in the tin, then carefully turn out the meringue, upside down, on to a sheet of baking parchment.
Put the yoghurt, cream, sugar and zest in a bowl; whip to soft peaks. Spread evenly over the meringue, leaving a 2cm border at the edges, sprinkle the raspberries on top, then roll up the roulade from one of the long edges, using the paper to help you. The surface will crack but don't worry. Serve in thick slices, with more raspberries.
